Operation Counterfeit II

Counterfeit Detection Part II

A while back we wrote an article about "Counterfeit Components", a hot button issue.  Quite a few people responded with concerns about identifying counterfeits.  We hooked up again with our friends at Custom Analytical Services and put together a little guidance to help people evaluate suspect components' true identity.

Don, the real "Donald" Trenholm, at Custom Analytical Services has a passion for components, having worked in the business for more years than he cares to remember.  He wanted to make sure we provided information to help people determine whether they have counterfeits in their hands.  Here's what we came up with.

The overwhelming majority of components supplied today are the real deal (high quality) and we can be sure the recognized names of the component industry, the Intels, Motorolas et al, are not going to supply the market with anything but the highest quality.  But, let's face it, the demand for components is complicated.   Order size, component availability, out-of-date parts and customized applications are just a few factors that force buyers to look outside the best known supply lines to obtain components.    

Sometimes buyers will turn to lesser known custom chip and package makers, where they may or may not get satisfaction, but they will be dealing directly with the source so there will be no confusion regarding counterfeit components.  The potential issue occurs when a buyer is forced to go to an independent distributor or broker to get components.  

This is not an indictment of brokers!  Brokers perform the crucial function of filling in numerous gaps in the supply chain.  Brokers themselves are just as often the "victim" of bad parts as anyone else.  On the other hand, when a broker is asked to supply a component, the search can lead far and wide and on rare occasion they are exposed to miscommunications and communication gaps that lead to counterfeit parts.  

Counterfeit is an overbroad term, good to focus attention, but inaccurate in detail. By counterfeit we may actually mean copied components, other times we mean used, damaged, reclaimed, out-of-date or re-labeled components.  For example; parts that have failed one level of testing, may be functional at another, but are not properly labeled to reflect their true state. 

Okay, enough background, what can you do to better inform yourself as to the quality of components you have received?

First and foremost, get to know your broker.  Do they have the controls in place that protect their component supply?  They know how tough their business is and they also know how to keep their suppliers in line.  I'm sure you'll find that reputable brokers (like any reputable independent business person) will be more than glad to walk you through their controls.  Talk to them.

About what you say?  Product starts its journey with documentation that establishes its credibility.  You can ask for it.  On occasion (even when no one is pulling a fast one) product moves through many hands and locations, it's easy for documentation to become lost or waylaid.  In these cases consider contacting the original manufacturer, provide the manufacturer the

Figure 1: Laser marking on counterfeit part creates holes at "r" and "t".

component information and see if they'll authenticate the component.  They may not be forthcoming as manufacturers may be leery of dealing with unauthorized distributors.  To otherwise improve your understanding, you also might try visiting their web site to determine if the component numbering coincides with the listed specifications. 

Barring satisfaction on that account, there are some other things you can do.

1. Markings: Visually inspect the exterior using a low power microscope or even a pocket magnifier.  Analyze the quality of the markings.  Original components are immaculate, and the markings are precise and identical.  On the other hand the quality of counterfeits can be "all over the map".  Most counterfeiters are very clever at hiding their work, however some are inattentive or

Figure 2: Looks like the real thing but it's not. Try cleaning it with alcohol.

lacking the equipment to properly counterfeit.  Figure 1 shows a component originally marked with a laser, then subsequently sanded down and re-scribed with a laser.  Pretty nifty, but the sanded package was now thinner and re-marking with the laser burned through.  That little hole you see on the left side of the T's crossbar permits us (with the proper lighting etc) to actually see the top of a bonding wire.

Figure 2 looks pretty good at first blush (minus the touch up to remove the manufacturer name), but it is a fraud.  Try wiping the marking off with alcohol and if it fades, beware!  If that doesn't do it look at the exterior of the device to see if it is scratched as if someone scraped off the old mark.  Sound crazy?  Don Trenholm says, "Don't laugh.  It's commonly done."

2.  The leads:  Brand new surface mount

Figure 3: Bent leads, reflowed solder and debris make this a reclaimed part.

and through hole component leads all look the same; perfectly formed with the same light slate gray finish.  However in many parts of the world it is common practice to strip components from boards, rework them and sell them on the open market.  Reclaiming parts is one thing, selling them as new is bad, bad, bad!  How can you tell if your components are reworked?  Check the leads for straightness, an occasional bent lead due to handling isn't good but isn't an indication of deceit.  Multiple failures in precise alignment should tip you off to a problem.  Also look at the bottom of the lead where it contacts the board.  Do you see excess solder or debris?  It is difficult to reclaim parts without leaving any sign of your work.  Figures 3 and 4 demonstrate several characteristics of reclamation. 

3.  BGAs:  Reballing is a common practice throughout the industry and it can be difficult to determine if your parts have been reballed. 

Figure 4: Too much of this in a lot should make you suspicious.

However close observation can shed the light on shifty business.  Is there excess solder around the balls?  Are there marks on the substrate indicating the pads were cleaned off with wick?  Is there residual flux on some of the components?  Are there unusual delaminations on the substrates.  Any of these conditions can tip you off to reballing or at least lead to a conversation with your supplier.  Figures 5, 6, and 7 show various rough reballing characteristics.

4.  Testing:  If you are still not sure or if some of the above characteristics lead you to desire further evidence, you can have a test house perform functional, parametric or destructive testing (de-construct) to determine if the innards work to specification.  If you think of it early enough you can have your purchase contingent on the outcome of the testing.  

Check the web, many manufacturers post information dealing with fraudulent devices.  For example http://www.erai.com/scripts/counterfeit. asp has posted many devices known to be frauds.  

Of course, if all else fails call Custom Analytical or your local lab.  They can open the top of the components and look at the die, compare markings inside and out, therein getting a sense of the part's origin.  Testing labs can be a wealth of information, in fact more than I am capable of communicating. 

Figure 5: Scratches indicate pad cleaning during reballing.

Figure 6: It's unlikely you'de see much of this excess solder from a new part.

 

Figure 7: Damaged BGA substrate means rough handling.

  

 

 

 

 

  

In the future, if you come up against components that don't look right, we hope we've provided information that will help you work your way to the truth.

Several members of the Circuit Technology Center team contributed to this feature story.